Splendid Decay

When asked why I love the city of Savannah so much, I find it difficult to put into words just exactly what it is that draws me back so often. I just booked yet another trip there and can't wait to see this historic city which beckons me to visit over and over again.



Artist Preston Russell put the feeling into words so very well:

When I drove down that first Savannah street in 1972, I saw something very moving—arresting. Old things, things that don't tend to dwell elsewhere in America. Old ways, old traditions. Tradition, someone said long ago, is the living faith of dead people. One can feel it here, even on a visit. After a few years, you know it. Old buildings, many dropping in splendid decay, like elderly folks who become more beautiful with the patina of survival. These old structures even seem to endow their occupants with an aura, as if an ordinary person walking down a Savannah street seems more real—even extraordinary—compared to that same person walking around the ubiquitous American strip mall.



Splendid decay. I love it. There is something about a historic building before it has been "restored." The moss, the cracks, the peeling paint...everything it has accumulated over the years adds to its character and heightens the story. For me, once a fresh coat of paint is slapped on, it begins to lose the wisdom and charm of its journey.



In his book, "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil," author John Berendt described it this way:



The city looked inward, sealed off from the noises and distractions of the world at large. It grew inward, too, and in such a way that its people flourished like hothouse plants tended by an indulgent gardener. The ordinary became extraordinary. Eccentrics thrived. Evvery nuance and quirk of personality achieved greater brilliance in that lush enclousre than would have been possible anywhere else on earth.







In anticipation of my arrival, a toast to dear Savannah...



because if it's good enough for Rembrandt...



it's good enough for me. Can't wait to see you again and feel your inspiration.

See more Savannah, Georgia photos on my Savannah web pages.

Savannah Rock 'N Roll Excursion, Pt. 5

All good things must come to an end, and my most recent trip to Savannah is no exception. I was most looking forward to lunch at The Wilkes House. Only open for lunch on weekdays, you can almost be guaranteed at least an hour wait to dine here. They don't take reservations, but that still doesn't deter the herds of people that come here five days a week and form a line stretching down Jones Street.



If you are watching your waist line or attempting to avoid carbs, this is not the place for you. If you are craving comfort food and good old fashioned southern cooking just like grandma used to make, then get to Jones Street as close to 10:30 am as possible so that you can be one of the first guests when the doors open at 11am.

Your meal is served family-style, as if you were attending lunch with a group of friends after church on a Sunday afternoon. The large tables seat about 12, and there are at least twenty tasty items to eat. Just keep passing the dishes around the table so everyone can get some!



Here's a look at what I heaped onto my plate:



After you're done eating, take your dirty dishes back to the washroom before you go. Even President Obama performed this Mrs. Wilkes tradition! And don't even think about whipping out a fancy credit card to pay for your meal; CASH ONLY for this EXTREMELY reasonably priced $18 meal! Pretty much the only meal you will need for the day.

In an attempt to walk off my delicious lunch, I ventured over to the Telfair Art Museum in Telfair Square.



The statues of many famous classical artists grace the exterior of the building, such as Rembrandt & Michelangelo:





One of the wonderful exhibits that was currently on display was that of Preston Russell. He has painted life in the "low country," perfectly capturing both its people and its architecture.



I know I said that lunch at Mrs. Wilkes' could serve as your one meal for the day, but I was on vacation, and eating in Savannah is a rare once-a-year treat for me, so I was not going to let go of my dinner option. A repeat trip to Leoci's served as my final meal of this excursion, and it fit the bill perfectly. A comfortable booth by the window:



A delicious tomato soup starter:



and an out-of-this-world gnocchi for my entrée:



Kudos to Leoci's not only for its delicious food, but for its extremely friendly staff. Although Italian food is not what I normally associate with Savannah, Leoci's does provide a fun atmosphere in which to partake of a tasty meal.

And with that, it was time to catch a plane back to San Diego. I will spare you the details of my trip home. Remember when flying on a plane was a treat and you actually dressed up to do so? Now, it's a pain in the ass and seems to take twice as long, once you add in the additional time for security and the time necessary for botched plane connections.



Oh how I wish I was back in Savannah, starting my day in the dining room of the Hamilton-Turner Inn, eating my Georgia Peach French Toast! Thanks to one of the south's most hospitable cities for yet another memorable visit.

See more Savannah photos on my Savannah web pages.